There are a few cars on the Aran island of Inishmore, but biking seems to be the preferred mode of transportation, that and the occasional pony cart.

Whichever you choose, the best way to travel the lanes of this rocky island are the slowest ways, ones that let you stop often to snap photos of rock-fenced fields and empty beaches.

The sea is everywhere here, visible from both sides at once. The cold, gray Atlantic crashing on cold shores.