Browsed by
Author: Anne Cassidy

Wandering in the Square

Wandering in the Square

Yesterday I found myself with a windfall, a three-hour window without meetings or interviews.

I also found myself in Patan Durbar Square. Durbar squares (I’ve just learned) are plazas opposite old royal palaces. The Patan one is, according to the guidebook “a marvel of Newari architecture.”The Newaris are the original inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley.

The square was filled with stupas and temples … and rubble. The 2015 earthquake is still very much in evidence here, with piles of gravel, half restored buildings and blue tarps everywhere. The town is also getting a new water supply, which means even more digging and dust.

None of this stops anyone, though, least of all the ubiquitous and death-defying motorcycle taxis, which whizz around corners with complete abandon.

Luckily, I found a car taxi to take me home. All I  had to do was share it with the driver’s brothers and a 100-pound bag of concrete.

It was the perfect way to wind down a wander.

Swayambhu Temple

Swayambhu Temple

Kathamandu, Nepal, is a town of three million people and no working traffic lights. The valley in which this enchanting town sits fills up with dust and pollution, and the Himalayas (which we saw yesterday from the air) makes sure the exhaust fumes don’t go away.

But none of that matters when you’re at Swayambhu Temple, walking around the stupas and soaking up the atmosphere. The prayer flags are flying, the monkeys are angling for food, and the city is spread out at your feet.

This is an ancient, holy, crazy place — and I can’t wait to see more of it.

Stored Energy

Stored Energy

Yesterday we learned about some agricultural innovations. There’s the nutritious spirulina (aka algae), which is being grown on a Thai rooftop, collected, semi-dried and added to pastas, puddings and more. It tastes like whatever it’s in, but it packs an impressive amount of protein into a tiny package. Maybe it will help feed the world’s burgeoning population in 2050. Or at least that’s the hope of its producer.

Spirulina is much more appetizing than another idea we heard about today: black soldier flies. Though no one was proposing that we start eating them — yet —the critters are being dried and used for fish food. So if you eat the fish … well, you know.

One more drying story is that of Rhino beads, ceramic beads that absorb moisture, keep seeds fresh and reduce spoilage, where farmers lose an impressive percentage of their crops.

As I sat there taking notes, my mind was full to bursting with the possibilities of it all. After the presentations and interviews, I walked down the street to a nearby park, where runners were making the circuit. From mental energy to physical energy.

It was an energetic whirlwind of a day. I want to capture and store it — not unlike seeds or spirulina —and save it for another day.

Forward-Looking

Forward-Looking

Yesterday we toured a port outside Bangkok where migrant workers can find information and help. Some members of my group climbed aboard this ship to look inside. They found … very many fishermen in a very small space. But all of them were legal (we think).

People who work to end human trafficking are a passionate, patient lot. They know the odds are against them, but foresee a future without modern slavery. And because they are patient they are making progress.

The fisherman’s center we saw today is one sign of that progress. Even something as simple as wireless access can make a difference to someone far from home, someone earning in a week what we spent on lunch.

So for now, though problems may mire us in the present, some of us are looking to the future.

Briefly from Bangkok

Briefly from Bangkok

I have five minutes before starting the official part of my work day here … just time to say I’m on the other side of the world. And though I’ve yet to experience any Bangkok street life, I do have the delightfully different experience of signing in to post the blog this morning on this screen. (See Thai script on the right and left navigation bars.)

Luckily, muscle memory tells me which link to check. My Thai is definitely not up to the task.

Though I can say Sawasdee Ka! Which means something like hello!

Asia Bound

Asia Bound

Tomorrow I leave for Asia: three days in Bangkok and nine in Nepal. My mission: to cover my organization’s board of directors’ trip and do additional reporting on women electric vehicle drivers in Kathmandu. It’s a plum assignment and I’ve been preparing for weeks: getting a visa and antimalarial meds, filling out forms, conducting interviews, writing and editing stories that can be published while I’m gone.

This morning I’m fielding emails from Nepal and making a last-minute schedule change. I’m figuring out how to cram two suitcases worth of clothing and electronics (I’m a human pack animal, ferrying swag and equipment from one continent to another) into one suitcase.
And finally, finally, I’m imagining what these places will be like on the other side of the world, the mountains, the temples, the Buddhist prayer flags waving.
It’s time for another adventure … 
Toys Aren’t Us

Toys Aren’t Us

I was sad to learn that Toys R Us will be closing its stores. Not that I liked them much in their heyday. Then I was sad about the smaller closings, the independents and the Zany Brainys. But still, this marks the end of an era. Not just of toy stores but of the sort of children who frequented them.

My kids grew up with real, tangible playthings — blocks and puzzles and Legos — and of course the boxes they came in. Electronic toys were beginning to enter the market, but barely. Now they dominate the market, and, I’m afraid, childhood itself.

What becomes of children who touch screens instead of play dough, who swipe instead of stack? I guess they become the people suited for a digital universe. All I know is, I’m glad I raised my kids when there were Barbies and Bratz and My Pretty Ponies — and the big warehouse store that sold them.

Year of the Bird

Year of the Bird

National Geographic is one of those magazines that comes into the house, lands on the coffee table and stays there. When the pile of glossy magazines is tall enough, I take it to the basement. Every so often, I read one of them. This time, it’s “Why Birds Matter” from the January issue. I unearthed it this morning after hearing its author, the novelist Jonathan Franzen, talking about it on the radio yesterday.

Turns out, National Geographic and the Audubon Society have proclaimed 2018 the “Year of the Bird.” It’s the centennial of the 1918 Migratory Bird Act, the nation’s oldest conservation law, and in its honor the magazine has given us a rapturous piece about raptors, hornbills, parrots, owls, doves, crows, you name it.

“When someone asks me why birds are so important to me, all I can do is sigh and shake my head, as if I’ve been asked to explain whey I love my brothers,” Franzen writes. Birds are diverse as the world is diverse, they are also a link to our evolutionary past. They are smart and beautiful and playful (you can apparently watch a Youtube video of crows sledding). They sing, nest and raise their young and, most of all, they fly.

“The radical otherness of birds is integral to their beauty and their value,” Franzen writes. “They are always among us but never of us.”

In the words of Henry Beston, who I’ve quoted several times in this blog: “They are not brethren, they are not underlings; they are other nations, caught with ourselves in the net of time and life.”

Leaving in the Dark

Leaving in the Dark

Once again it’s dark when I leave for work and light when I return. This happens every year when we “spring forward,” and every year I note the change.

It’s not that I don’t enjoy the long evenings — though long, frigid evenings are not exactly what I had in mind.

It’s more the shift of expectations. Can I still come home, pull on comfy sweat pants and veg out? Not so easy when it’s light till 7:30.

On the other hand, leaving in darkness has always signified seriousness of purpose. It’s the departure hour for early-morning flights and important interviews.

I feel so virtuous pulling out of the driveway with only moonlight and porch light to guide me. It’s like I’m getting a jump on the day — even though it’s no earlier than I left last week!

Signs of Spring

Signs of Spring

Signs of spring on walks this weekend:
A patch of crocus in the yard next door. 
The first plump buds on the dogwood tree.
A clump of snowdrops in the common land.
Soon there will be lilacs and azalea, the whole show. But for now, I look for the first faint stirrings.