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Category: place

The Power of Preservation

The Power of Preservation

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A walking tour of Charleston yesterday revealed many interesting facts, two of which are related, I think. This southern city had the nation’s earliest and most successful preservation laws — and it has now surpassed Las Vegas in the number of weddings per year.

That last one is a dubious distinction, but it indicates that people want to be here, that there’s a charm and scale about the place that boosts tourism and the bottom line. 

Old buildings, narrow alleyways, hidden courtyards — these create a sense of place that’s often lacking in this country. If only more of our cities had preserved their pasts, instead of bulldozing them. 

(The Powder Magazine is South Carolina’s oldest government building, completed in 1713. The Colonial Dames of America saved it from demolition in 1902.)

Savannahhh!

Savannahhh!

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In 2015 it was Big Sky, Montana. In 2016, Chicago, followed by Huston in 2017 and St. Louis the year after that. And then we ran out of young’uns getting married, or at least ones having big weddings. 

This weekend, we made up for lost time. Savannah obliged by rolling out a pair of warm days and sultry evenings, perfect for strolling the brick-paved walks of this gracious southern city. 

I’m here to see people not scenery, but the place has wowed me just the same. 

The Wild Side

The Wild Side

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Yesterday I found the trail I was looking for. It was tucked away in a corner of the county that adjoins the Fairfax County Parkway and its monolithic soundproof walls. 

The path featured several fair-weather stream crossings, but nothing that could scoot below or hang above all that parkway asphalt, as impassable as a raging river. 

There was a tunnel under a lesser road, though, a dark enclosure that paralleled a stream. I took that — despite the warning.

Sometimes you have to walk on the wild side.  Even in the suburbs. 

Worth the Wait

Worth the Wait

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I’m going to stay with The Power Broker for this post, too. I realize that most of my comments about the book have been about its weight. But 923 pages into it I can say at least a few words about its content. 

The Power Broker: Robert Moses and the Fall of New York is an in-depth portrayal of New York City’s traffic and building czar, Robert Moses, who held sway over the Big Apple for more than three decades, crucial years during which much of the city’s modern infrastructure was shaped. 

Moses built parks and dams, bridges and highways. He moved rivers and shorelines, condemned homes and destroyed neighborhoods. He shaped not just New York but all the cities of this country, because New York was held up as a model. And in it, public transportation took a back seat to the automobile. That there was a connection between this deficit and the highways that were clogged with traffic almost immediately after opening was just beginning to be understood in the 1940s and 50s. 

The book is also a study of power, how it seduces and changes a person and, by extension, the places over which that person has control. In this meticulously researched account of Moses, author Robert Caro shows young reporters and writers how to tell a big story, one so big that for years it wasn’t understood, let alone written. 

It’s for that reason that the book was assigned as summer reading before I entered a graduate journalism program years ago. I bought it then, a used copy for $7.50, but am only now getting around to reading it. The book has been worth the wait — as well as the weight. 

(Entrance to the Queens Midtown Tunnel, which Moses tried to block. He disliked tunnels.)

A Window on Oban

A Window on Oban

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I’m sitting in a window seat overlooking Oban Harbor, trying to imagine living in the midst of such beauty. Would you stop noticing it? Would it become just some pretty wallpaper, something you glanced at from time to time while going about your everyday life? 

The two charming rooms in this B&B make me think otherwise. The lady of the house showed us in, laid the key on the low coffee table in front of the window, stood with me just a minute explaining how things work, lingered as if to say, this is something special. 

Because it is, and you feel it the moment you walk in. The window frames a view of shining water, docked fishing boats, and many-chimneyed houses made of no-nonsense stone. But it’s a view that depends on the movement of clouds and the angle of the sun, or whether a small ferry or a large one is moving across the waves. It’s a view that’s always changing, and always lovely.

Quality of the Air

Quality of the Air

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Last week’s heat exploded in a series of storms that set fires, blew circuits and knocked at least one radio station off the air for a few minutes. I was in the car when Rachmaninoff’s Second Symphony suddenly went to static. 

But the result is a welcome bout of cool air, especially up here in Maryland where the family has gathered for a week of hiking, kayaking and hanging out.

For me, it’s also time to ponder the quality of air that makes this corner of the state a special place. It’s not just cooler and clearer but, at 2,000 feet of elevation, it’s closer to heaven, too.  

A Fox on a Walk

A Fox on a Walk

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Today, on an early walk, I spied a fox crossing the road. Given its location and direction, it could well be the critter I see dashing across my backyard early most days. 

What surprised me is that the fox was heading into the deep woods, not the patch of trees (mostly downed) that fan out from the back corner of our property. 

This gave me a new appreciation for his range and rambles, for the ground he covers and, by extension, the life he leads. 

As I grew closer to the grove where he was hiding, I spied his cute little face and perky ears. He was looking at me as closely as I was looking at him. 

(Top, the woods where I saw the fox, and above, a couple of his fellow wild creatures, grazing in a neighbor’s yard as if they owned the place.)

Soon-to-be-Gone

Soon-to-be-Gone

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Sometimes I feel like a documentarian. My subject: the felling of trees in my neighborhood. This is not a job I sought or welcomed, but when the giants go, I want to record their passing. After all, they have shaded us for decades, have been beautifying this place for a century or more. Some of them are over 100 feet tall, and I treasure them.

The one meeting its maker today is visible from my office window. I write this post to the sound of chainsaw and wood grinder. The tree is healthy, but its owner fears it might fall on his house. And who can blame him, since a tree fell on the house of his neighbors and damaged it so mightily that they had to move out for months. 

It’s a little like shuttling old folks to the assisted living center earlier rather than later. Prophylactic placement, or in this sense prophylactic felling. All I know is, once again I’m recording the soon-to-be-gone.

Lumber and Mulch

Lumber and Mulch

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After rhapsodizing yesterday about tree tunnels and way stations, I learned that one of these shady spots had a defector. Another giant fallen. This on a cloudless, breezeless day, not long after I walked by.

I’m not surprised at the toppling. The tree (I’m trying to identify it from its leaves — maybe a cottonwood?) had been leaning for years, and had reached such a precipitous angle that it was only a matter of time before gravity got the better of it.

The trees in my neighborhood can be 80 to 100 feet tall. When one comes down, it can smash a roof or block the street. In this case, since it happened only a few feet before an intersection, it effectively shut down access to the outside world. 

Help was soon on the way. Before you could shout “timber” the thick trunk was chainsawed and pulled out of the way. But this tall, shade-producer, leaning and bent though it was, had become a companion on my walks, a landmark of sorts. Now it’s only lumber and mulch. 

Weed Me!

Weed Me!

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Here in the suburbs, lawns matter. They’re to be green and weed-free, though many of them are not, ours included. 

Driveways, on the other hand, should be as smooth and polished as ebony, well poured and thoroughly sealed. They should not require weeding at all, as this one (full disclosure, mine) so plainly does. 

To which I can only say, as I have for so many other suburban transgressions … oops!