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The Campsite

The Campsite

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In 1918 and again in 1921, Henry Ford, Thomas Edison and Harvey Firestone camped near this waterfall in what is now Swallow Falls State Park in Oakland, Maryland. They called themselves the Vagabonds and toured the Eastern United States, popularizing automobile travel. 

Isn’t it ironic that people now journey to places like Swallow Falls for respite from the automobile? They travel great distances to pitch their tents in woods and fields, or to rent houses, as we have, and immerse themselves in an alternative landscape. 

Though the Vagabonds traveled with their own naturalist (John Burroughs) and an entourage of chefs and butlers, they must have felt as I did yesterday glimpsing the simple beauty of water falling over rock. 

It makes you want to stop and ponder, to set up camp and stay a while. 

Still Life with Hay Bales

Still Life with Hay Bales

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Last evening in the golden hour of slanted light, I walked up the road a quarter mile to a field I’ve been seeing on our drives.  My goal: to capture “on film” a field of daisies. 

But the daisies were a little too far away and the traffic was whipping around me as I stood on the scant shoulder, so I made quick work of the shot. On the way back, though, I raised my phone to photograph another beautiful field, green grass studded with hay bales lit by the lowering sun. 

I’d actually crunched and marched my way across this field when I thought I could reach the daises on foot, before I discovered the rusty wire fence and the treed border. I’d taken some photos of the hay bales from that angle and found them lacking.

But up above, on the berm, I could capture the sunlight and the shadows— beauty on a larger scale. Proof, once again, of the power of perspective. 

County Fair

County Fair

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It’s just serendipity that we’re here the same week as the Garrett County Agricultural Fair. So yesterday we ventured out to see the pigs and cows and sheep and goats (some of us city folks confusing those latter two).  There were rabbits, too, long-eared laps and Netherland dwarfs. Plus all kinds of hens and roosters, one of which excited the babies with his loud cocka-doodle-doo.

The carnival rides looked as scary as ever — a ferris wheel that was going around at quite a clip and other contraptions that shake you and turn you upside down.  Along the midway, barkers sang their timeless song: everyone’s a winner here. 

And then, there was the food: cotton candy, which brought back memories of when I used to make it at the Bluegrass Fair as a teenager, gathering the sugar floss with a paper cone, twirling it around the sides of the machine and handing it to a happy customer. What we didn’t have back then were fried pickles, fried cheese and fried candy bars.  So of course, that’s the photo I snapped. 

At the Lake

At the Lake

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A laptop that’s been off for more than two full days. Dinner for eight every night. A new place with new routines. Must be on vacation.

Here at the lake it’s 20 degrees cooler than home — and with two babies and two dogs, quite a bit more lively.

Two of us are working, two just left for a walk, two of us are napping (the under-one crowd) and the rest are figuring out what we’ll do next. 

It’s August … and the world is now this cottage near a lake. 

Space Relations

Space Relations

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Never my strong suit on standardized tests, what we used to call space relations is not one of those fusty academic subjects that never comes in handy later in life.  It’s an aptitude you can use! 

Right now, for instance, it would be nice to know if the two large (and growing) piles of stuff I’ve been collecting for the lake will fit in our two smallish sedans. One of these cars will have a kayak strapped on the top, or at least that’s the plan, so that must be taken into consideration, weight-wise. 

My record in these areas is dismal. I can’t even figure out how big a Tupperware I need for leftovers, often trying one too small before I finally hit it right. The difference in cubic feet between a dollop of green beans and the mountain of food, fans, towels and other essentials growing upstairs and down is, well, stunning. 

The hour of judgment is coming. I have a feeling it will also be the hour of jettisoning. 

‘Let Every Fiber Thrill’

‘Let Every Fiber Thrill’

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With our family lakeside getaway only two days away, I couldn’t have picked a better time to read Madeleine Blais’ book To the New Owners. A valentine to her family’s ramshackle bungalow on Martha’s Vineyard it sums up the chaos of multi-generational gatherings.  

One of my favorite chapters features excerpts from the guest register. There are explanations, exhortations and ruminations — entries that touch on every aspect of that family’s island getaways.

“I’ve never played so many games of gin rummy in my life.” 

“I can think of no other place I’d rather go  out and not catch any fish!”

And, because this is a literary family, numerous riffs on the famous line from Moby Dick, including, “Call me, Ishmael” and “You never call me, Ishmael.” 

One of my favorite entries is this quotation from Flaubert, which captures the spirit with which one should embark upon a trip that (in my case) consists of eight adults, two babies and two large German Shepherds:

“Spend! Be profligate! All great souls, that is to say, all good ones, expend all their energies regardless of the cost. You must suffer and enjoy, laugh, cry, love and work, in other words you must let every fiber of your being thrill with life. That’s the meaning of being human, I think …”

(Above: Guest books from Thule, our beloved lakeside cottage in Indiana, which left the family about five years ago.)

Lower East Side

Lower East Side

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The New York City expedition was two weeks ago, but I’m still thinking of the city and its pleasures: the cacophony of drill hammers, car horns, trucks backing up, people talking, gesturing, all while walking, of course — life happening everywhere you go.

The destination of our trip was the Lower East Side, a neighborhood I seldom ventured into after dark back in the day. But there we were, wandering down Delancey and Essex and Orchard, dodging only rain, not bullets. 

I ‘m stretching that a bit; it was mostly muggings we were trying to avoid in the mid 1980s, carrying a folded $10 or $20 in a back pocket, “mugger’s money” we could offer if accosted. 

But still, it was hard to visit the area and not notice the sheen of danger.  Maybe that’s part of its charm.

All Aboard?

All Aboard?

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Boarding the train  back to Washington last Saturday, I found myself in the new Daniel Patrick Moynihan Train Hall. It’s an imposing place, artfully done with glass ceilings that frame original stone walls. 

The space created for this new building was at one point suggested by the former senator from New York, and as a New Yorker article about it points out, the new terminal seeks to atone for the travesty that was the teardown of the original Penn Station in 1963. 

The train hall is glossy and spit-polished and features huge screens with rotating displays, including photographs of 1940s travelers, women in frocks with sleeves down to their elbows, a generous if  not always flattering cut, I thought, as I waited for the train in my cap-sleeved dress. 

That I spent as much time as I did musing on those passengers and those dresses is proof that there was little else to look at. 

So, with apologies for acting the curmudgeon, let me grieve for a moment the loss of the Amtrak boarding area in the previous Penn Station, the one that replaced the”Beaux Arts beauty” of the original, the Penn Station of more recent yore, where the chaos of waiting for a train was the city’s final gift to the departing traveler. A reminder of the chaos you were leaving behind, the chaos that you would miss when you returned home.

Shank’s Mare

Shank’s Mare

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Today, my feet are in the suburbs but my soul is in the city. I’m missing New York City in many ways, especially in this one: walking there is purposeful. It’s about getting where you need to be, not taking 10,000 steps.

You don’t bother with the subway if you’re just hopping 20 blocks. Taxis are harder to come by than they used to be, and on Thursday night, Uber was asking $120 to take you from the Upper West Side to the Lower East Side. Yes, they are on opposite sides of the island, but come on!

Which brings us to shank’s mare, that most dependable mode of transportation. It might be hot and it might take a minute, but walking will get you where you need to be.

Yes, I rhapsodize about the practice of walking. It calms and inspires me on a daily basis. So much so that it’s easy to forget its original purpose, which is to get us from one place to another. In New York City, you don’t forget.

A Symphony

A Symphony

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If walking in the suburbs is a sonata, walking in the city is a symphony. It is the cued entrance of  countless well-tuned players, the trilling of a piccolo, the thrum of a timpani. It is pedestrians striding through the square and construction workers in hard hats taking a break. 

It’s a stroll on the High Line and a view of lower Manhattan from Little Island, the city’s newest park. 

It’s meandering through the West Village, down Bedford and Barrow, past the Cherry Lane Theater and on to Bleecker, where I’ll grab a Napoleon and watch ten white-habited monks who’ve come from Our Lady of Pompeii to buy some cannolis. 

It’s the plume of a fountain in Washington Square Park and the chess players and weed hawkers and pickup jazz bands that gather nearby.

It’s a trip to the Strand Bookstore (still there!) on the way uptown, then dinner at a hundred-plus-year-old bar and grill.

Four movements, none of them replicable. A city walk. A symphony.