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Category: travel

The Visited Place

The Visited Place

In his book Horizon, the late Barry Lopez talks about his fascination with the life of the British explorer Captain James Cook. Though Lopez admits that Cook’s adventures did not always bode well for indigenous people (and it was indigenous people who took Cook’s life, in Hawaii, in 1779), Lopez does not demonize the man.  Cook explored the east coast of Australia, continental Antarctica and Hawaii, all the while, Lopez believes, remaining “quietly but profoundly conflicted about the consequences of his work.” 

He tells us that Cook’s nautical charts were so detailed that his work allowed humans “to picture the entire planet, the whole of it at once, a sense of open space that, in the centuries of Western exploration before him, had eluded us. After Cook, the old cartographer’s admissions of ignorance, ‘Here Be Dragons,’ disappeared from the perimeter of world maps.”

The best way to appreciate the places Cook visited was to visit them himself, Lopez says. In fact, the best way to take in any place is not with photographs or written descriptions, but by being in the place itself. Lopez was in a better position than most to make that happen.  

“Each place on Earth goes deep. Some vestige of the old, now seemingly eclipsed place is always there to be had. The immensity of the mutable sea before me at Cape Foulweather, the faint barking of the sea lions in the air, the nearly impenetrable (surviving) groves of stout Sitka spruce behind me, the moss-bound creeks, the flocks of mew gulls circling schools of anchovies just offshore, the pummeling winds and crashing surf of late-winter storms—it’s all still there.”

(A map of Cook’s three voyages, courtesy Wikipedia)

By Armchair to Cambodia

By Armchair to Cambodia

We’re closing in on the end of the longest month. Outside, the pandemic rages and borders are closing. Time for some armchair travel.

Two years ago I was preparing for a trip to Cambodia. I had yet to see moonlight on the Mekong or sip coconut milk from a straw. I had yet to visit Angkor Wat or Ta Prohm or Bayon. I had yet to meet Bunthan and Dilen and Johnny, the people I traveled with in country. 

But soon I would ride the roads with them. I would learn that Johnny was about to leave his job as driver and go into real estate (in fact, ours was his last trip). I would learn to count on Bunthan’s excellent translation and Dilen’s knack for noticing what others missed. 

I would also meet the people my organization serves: brave women and men who had known far more of life’s difficulties than triumphs. But still, they were building better lives, and we were there to celebrate them.

Armchair travel is comfortable, yes, but ah, I miss the real thing!

Two for the Road

Two for the Road

When Mom and I traveled to Europe together many years ago, we bought matching sweaters “just in case” it was chilly. We were immediately glad we did. We donned them the first evening, as we listened to an outdoor concert in a chill June drizzle in London, and wore them often throughout the next six weeks as we toured England, Ireland, France, Germany, Austria and Italy. 

We slipped ponchos over them when it was raining and slept under them on overnight train trips. They also came in handy as robes and cushions. We wore them so much that we never wanted to see them again when we got home. 

They’ve always been sentimental to me, enough that I stuck them in a suitcase and stored them in the attic for years. And that has preserved them, preserved the memories, too. 

Quick Trip to Bangladesh

Quick Trip to Bangladesh

The news escapes slowly, as I learn which of my colleagues, liberated from the office until at least 2021, have quietly slipped away from their former homes to other (usually sunnier) climes. At least two have moved to North Carolina, one to the Outer Banks. Another is relocating from Arkansas to California. Still another has been living on the Delaware shore since March.

I won’t be moving anytime soon. But I have a wealth of armchair trips I can take. 

Right now, for instance, I’m thinking of Bangladesh, not a big vacation spot, true, but a place where I spent an intense and satisfying two and a half weeks in 2017. Having just written an article based on reporting I conducted there, I’m reminiscing more than usual about the place. 

It was the rainy season, and the fields were startlingly green.

Tea plants were ready for picking. 

Streets were bustling and rickshaws were colorful.

I met people I’ll never forget. 

Is it any wonder I can’t resist a backward glance?

Beyond the Beach

Beyond the Beach

When you’re at the beach it’s easy to be seduced by it, to think there is nothing else to see or do. But  there are other pleasures. The pool, for instance. I’ve spent many hours lazing by it, reading or writing, and many hours in it, as my body cools and my fingers shrivel.

And there is walking around the little village center here, where you can people-watch, pick up a salad for dinner and buy a souvenir or two.

Finally, there’s the mental vibe of the beach, which expands beyond the sand and surf into the light and the wind — into the words I write, the thoughts I think and the dreams I dream.

I guess that’s why I keep coming back.

Change of Scene

Change of Scene

For months we have been mostly at home, not leaving at all except for groceries in March and April, tip-toeing out a bit more in May and June, and now, in July, a couple of full-blown trips are in the offing. The first of these is today. I take Celia to the airport in a few minutes.

It seems strange after a period of home-based quiet to suddenly be encountering the world again. The world has shrunk in these months. It’s now a creaky rocking chair in the kitchen, a yoga mat in the basement and my office chair pulled out onto the deck, looking incongruous there but oh so much more comfortable than the wrought iron patio furniture with the old blue cushion.

You’d think that after such enforced seclusion one might have startling insights. Maybe those are yet to come. My trip is next week, so … I’ll be waiting.

Out of State

Out of State

Over the weekend, I took a brief trip to the state of Maryland. It was only a quick visit, I was home in less than five hours. Yet so homebound have I become that it felt like I was taking off for a cross-country expedition.

While the go-go-ness of my life up till March has meant no time to process the people and places I was visiting, recent stay-at-home mandates haven’t given me much time to digest things, either. Because there’s never a shortage of work and chores, and low-level anxiety has a way of gumming up the gray matter.

Still, even a short sojourn helped. There was a new path, familiar beneath the feet — but it had been more than a year since I strolled it. There was fresh air from the river and bay, and, most of all, there were the dear faces of people I love but hadn’t seen since wintertime. 
It was a short trip but a good trip, proof that even a little break makes a difference. On the way home I sang in the car.  
Hidden Blossoms

Hidden Blossoms

While it’s easy to be captivated by the grand views off the ridges of Shenandoah National Park, one of the prettiest sights I saw yesterday were these pink lady’s slippers. They were tucked behind a stand of (as yet un-bloomed) mountain laurel, as if they were hiding, biding their time. 

Spring is still arriving at 3,000 feet, and many of the trees were still flashing gold at their crowns. Wildflowers we welcomed weeks ago, like buttercups, are in their prime on the slopes.

But no matter the season, the views captivate year-round, whether framed in flaming leaves or spring wildflowers.

One-Day Getaway

One-Day Getaway

A drive west today, out to the Blue Ridge Mountains, the great ridge that runs down the eastern spine of this country, out to where the sky meets the land.

It’s been a while since I’ve been more than 20 miles away from home. Half a year, I think. And while it is true that one can travel widely without ever leaving home, at least for this wanderer, an occasional glimpse of the world beyond helps maintain sanity.

So a drive west it will be, out to the ridge I took pains to see yesterday on my walk. The Shenandoah — the shaggy old hills that mark the beginning of the rest of the country.

Possible Again?

Possible Again?

Warmth has been slow to arrive this year, so as I listen to the furnace purr, I’m reliving travels to steamier climes, from the white sand beach of Siesta Key, Florida, to the dark, broad beach at Cox’s Bazar in Bangladesh.

I’m remembering the feeling of sand in my toes and the lap of surf in my ears. I’m dreaming of a world where traveling to these places is possible again.

I must need a vacation or something!