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Giant’s Causeway

Giant’s Causeway

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Giant’s Causeway is scenery on a large scale. If it was an opera, it would be “Aida,” something with elephants and processions.

The rocks themselves were made from lava flows that quickly crystallized. But what captured my attention wasn’t just the geology of the place; it was the beauty. The blue-gray churn of the Atlantic, the green of the low hills and the colorful jackets and parkas of humans clambering over rocks.

We walked in and out of rain, but in between, the sun sparkled on damp heather and a rainbow shimmered. We walked a while on a high coastal path that took us by cows grazing with a million-dollar view. Didn’t matter to them. They just chewed their cud and swished their tales.

Scotland is less than 30 miles from the slice of the Antrim coast we saw today. It feels like we’re at the far northern tip of the world.

(Photos to come when wi-fi is more alert!)

Saving Civilization

Saving Civilization

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To get ready for the trip I began reading How the Irish Saved Civilization, which describes how Irish monks sitting in beehive huts painstakingly and lovingly copied the great classical manuscripts.

When the rest of Europe was overrun with barbarian hordes, this rainy, out-of-the-way island was quietly making all the difference.

It’s exciting that we’re actually going to see some of these beehive huts on the Dingle Peninsula and on the island of Inishmore, two of the stops we’re making.

But first … there’s more packing to be done.

Next stop, Dublin!

Emerald-Isle-Bound!

Emerald-Isle-Bound!

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Tomorrow we leave for Ireland. The routes are planned, the car is reserved. It will be a stick shift (left -hand drive), which means an adventure from the get-go.

It’s been decades since I visited the “auld sod” with Mom. We had more than two weeks on the road with plenty of time to look up Concannons, Longs and other relatives. We found a road in Barna, outside Galway, and a man who was the spitting image of my grandfather. He told us that the Concannons on one side of the road didn’t speak with the Concannons on the other side of the road. We knew then that we had found the right family.

We also located two old bachelor second cousins once removed. Gerard and John Long lived down a long lane in County Clare. Their simple cottage had a tin roof and no plumbing. They took out their finest linens and china and served us a cup of tea with toasted brown bread. It was a moment I’ll never forget.

It’s a different Ireland now — but one I can’t wait to explore!

The Tan

The Tan

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When I was young, a tan was something you sought, treasured and displayed. You laid out on lounge chairs or towels. You slathered on baby oil and basically fried out there. “Did you go to Florida?” high school classmates would ask after spring break.  “No, it was just my back yard,” I’d say, enjoying the surprise on their faces.

This is because I would lay out in all weathers, tilting my face to the sun, from which flowed all strength and goodness (or so it seemed). I liked the way I looked when I was tan; brown was beautiful.

When I was older I went to ocean beaches for my tan. When no shoreline was available (and it usually wasn’t), I settled for towels spread on the well-trod grass of Lincoln Park or the soft tar roof of my Greenwich Village apartment building.

In time, grudgingly, I applied sunscreen. At first, only SPF 8. It was a pride thing. But later I tried the higher numbers. The tans, though reduced, still remained. I couldn’t imagine returning from a week at the beach without having skin that was a different color than the skin I left with.

Not anymore. This year I come back the same. I attribute this not to lack of time on the strand or at the pool — but to lavish use of SPF 50, a UV-protectant shirt I pulled on over my bathing suit and a towel draped over my legs.

I long ago realized that the “healthy glow” was not so healthy. There are wrinkles and age spots and worse.  So I was careful; I heeded the dermatologist’s warnings.

The beach vacation remains, but the tan is history.

Backward Glance

Backward Glance

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I’m big on the backward glance, on analyzing what has happened, on figuring out from it what might be to come.

This does not go away when I’m at the beach. But it softens a little, like a once-crisp cracker at an al fresco lunch beside the waves.

At the beach it’s easier to see the back-and-forth of things, the ebbs and flows; easier to trust that all will be well.

I’m always looking for lessons, even from vacations. And that’s what this beach week is showing me: Clouds will pile up in the east, will show themselves as rain-makers by the dark slant beneath them. They will come this way, will empty and pass. And then … the sun will come out again.

Shell Art

Shell Art

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If rocks and shells could talk, these would laugh, whistle and shout. Look at us, they’d say. Someone has picked us up off the beach, spiffed us up, cast us as heroes in a crazy beach novel.

Here we are telling a joke:

Here we are sharing a tale:

We have no idea why we were willed into being, what our creator has in mind for us. But for now, we are alive and transformed on this Gulf Coast beach.

Dipping my Toes

Dipping my Toes

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The sounds I heard outside this morning didn’t make sense. Were the taps and creaks from errant branches, from the building warming in the tropical sun? Only when I looked out the window did I see the rain.

It doesn’t matter; I have plenty to do inside as well as out. I brought books and notes and half-finished essays. Brain food. Things to think about and read.

A trip to the beach rests the body and the mind. So I sleep more, worry less (or try to!) and ignore weather reports. How long will it rain? The clouds are dark, but I see some blue. Did the storm break the humidity?

Only one way to find out. I’ll finish this post and my morning pages, then dip my toes into the day.

Grounding

Grounding

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I had no sooner written about Japanese forest bathing than I read about “grounding,” which is … walking outside barefoot. Grounding, also known as “earthing,” is a way of touching base with the essentials. Those who favor it say that it might help prevent chronic diseases, and research shows that it can improve sleep and lower stress.

Sounds touchy-feely (in more ways than one!) … and yet, consider this: One theory that explains the positive effect of grounding is that earth’s negative charge neutralizes the free radicals that can damage our cells. Antioxidants not from fruits and vegetables but from the earth itself.

And then there is the circadian rhythm aspect of grounding, the fact that touching ground can help regulate our autonomic nervous system, our breathing out and our breathing in.

The article in the Washington Post explaining this research ended with suggestions: Walk barefoot on ground or sand (something I’ll be doing in a few minutes, as a matter of fact!). Garden in the earth, or even lean against a tree trunk.

We are only beginning to understand how connected we are to the natural world around us.

Tropical Morning

Tropical Morning

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Here a rustling in the brush means a lizard not a squirrel. And the birds are different, too, though they still rub their beaks clean against a dead tree limb in that quick one-two way, just as the birds do at home, as birds do everywhere, I guess. 
There’s a loud clattering behind the palms. A lizard, too? Or maybe a squirrel after all. Maybe there is more familiar here than it first appears.
I’m sitting by the pool before 8 a.m., writing these words. A dove coos. Birds tweet. Air conditioners hum. The sounds of a tropical morning.

I’m looking at a tall banana tree now, at a big leaf in the process of shredding. A plant that bends  but does not break. Palm trees don’t crash to the ground in a tropical storm. They sway but stay rooted. That would be different, not having to worry about the great oaks falling.

Would I tire of the sameness here? Maybe … or maybe not.

Long Drive

Long Drive

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The long drive begins like any other: settling into the seat, snapping on the belt, adjusting the mirror. And for the first few hours, it feels like any other, too: staring at the road, flipping through a newspaper (only if you’re not driving!), munching on cereal or pretzels.

But the long drive quickly asserts itself in the mind and body. An exit that would normally herald a resting place is just a milepost, barely a quarter of the way into the trip. The hopeful slant of morning sun quickly fades into the desolate phantom-puddled pavement of mid-afternoon. And as darkness falls you are still far from home.

The long drive is made bearable by good company, by podcasts — and, of course, by snacks. Cereal in the morning, pretzels in the afternoon, an apple, a Snapple and Fresh Mint Tic Tacs, which prop open even the heaviest of eyelids.

The best part of the long drive is the final few feet, pulling into the driveway, hearing Copper bark, knowing a bed — a familiar bed — is waiting upstairs.