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Toddlin’ Town

Toddlin’ Town

Chicago, goes the song, is a “toddlin’ town.” And when I was there last weekend, those words kept buzzing through my brain. I can remember Frank Sinatra singing them. I can remember my dad singing them.

Dad loved Chicago, would come up twice a year to the Merchandise Mart, where he’d peddle new rattan furniture lines. He stayed in the Palmer House, and in between clients would slip out to browse in bargain basement record bins. He came back to Lexington with a whiff of the faraway, bringing tales of this windy city on a lake so big you couldn’t see the other side.

“Bet your bottom dollar, you’ll lose your blues in Chicago … the town that Billy Sunday could not shut down. … On State Street, that great street, I’ve just got to say, they do things they don’t do on Broadway. …  I had the time, the time of my life. I saw a man who danced with his wife, in Chicago, Chicago my home town.”

Those lyrics are from memory mind you. Brought to the fore by a whirlwind weekend in a place I used to call home.

Chicago River Tour

Chicago River Tour

I didn’t think much about the Chicago River when I lived here decades ago. I paid attention to it on St. Patrick’s Day, when it was dyed kelly green, but otherwise it was more of an embarrassment than anything else.

This began to change around the time I left. There was a clean-up-the-river campaign. There were new buildings by premier architects. And there was the river walk, built to rival San Antonio’s — which it certainly does.

There were so many facts in yesterday’s architectural river tour that I can only remember a fraction of them. We saw the tallest building designed by a woman and learned of a building that could not support its marble facade and was refaced with granite.

We saw the Merchandise Mart, Navy Pier and Sears (now Willis) Tower.  We marveled at the reflective glass that gave us a picture of the buildings behind us.

Most of all, we (or at least I) caught our breath at the beauty of it all, at the majesty of the great city spread out before us, all glittering water and glass.

Bunting!

Bunting!

A walk through the streets of Hinsdale, a leafy suburb west of Chicago, found me with a camera in hand snapping photos of gardens and porches — and bunting. It’s such a festive and old-fashioned way to celebrate the Fourth.

It’s not something I see as much of around home, perhaps because it doesn’t lend itself to center-hall colonials or perhaps because proximity to the seat of government has worn our patriotism thin!

Whatever the case, I’ve enjoyed the festoons and the graceful draping of the red, white and blue. And though bunting is in shorter supply today in the city, there are still legions of flags flying, and there will, I’m sure, be ample seasonal excitement here in Chicago. It is, after all, the day for it.

But I have a hunch that when the dust settles it’s the bunting I’ll remember most — the small, personal celebrations of hearth and home.

Urban Adventure

Urban Adventure

It’s been a while since I’ve been in Chicago. I won’t say how long! But I’ll be there in a few hours, trying to jump some old place memory cells from when I lived here many years ago.

The city has changed a lot since then. Places that one didn’t go into are quite hip now.

And luckily Chicago is forgiving. If you can figure out where the lake is, you can figure out which way to go.

So here goes. An urban adventure.

(small photo from Wikipedia)

Chicago Bound

Chicago Bound

Minutiae is the enemy of creativity. Combine minutiae with work deadlines, house and yard chores, event planning and the to-dos of daily living, and you have a perfect storm of — well, I was looking for the antonym of “creativity” and what Thesaurus.com has come up with is … reality!

So yes, a perfect storm of reality, or let’s just say reality on steroids.

But today’s plan is to walk to National Airport (20 minutes on foot), board a big bird and fly to Chicago for a family wedding.

Working now in the shadow of this airport I often think about the people in those big birds as they zoom off to their destinations. They, too, are prisoners of minutiae, prisoners of reality. But as I stare from my office building at the airborne jets, I imagine all passengers are sipping drinks with little umbrellas bound for fun-filled Caribbean vacations.

It’s an innocent fantasy. A creative fantasy. The opposite of reality. But whatever it is, today I’ll be part of it.

Schooling

Schooling

As part of my new job I’m writing and editing stories about people who have nothing. About school children from South Sudan dressed in tidy uniforms who must sit on rocks or tin cans because their school has no desks.

I think about the white boards and the wired classrooms here — and then remember the school in Toura where Suzanne and Appolinaire taught: the cinderblock walls and wooden desks that you see here.

It’s easy to romanticize learning, to say it happens wherever teachers are gifted and students inspired. But when children are cold or hot, when they cut their legs on the sharp rocks they’ve lugged to the school for seating, when they aren’t even allowed to go to school because they must help their families in the fields — there is no magic there. There can’t be until the basic physical needs are met.

I’m glad I have a chance to be reminded of this now, to write about people who have nothing. Because of the perspective they bring, of course, but most of all because their stories must be told.

Back to Africa

Back to Africa

Time for a mental vacation. I’m heading back to Africa for a few minutes, to Parc Pendjari in northwest Benin, bordering Burkina Faso.

It was a last-minute addition to our itinerary, something we undertook because we found a family of five to tag along with. They had hired a guide and driver — the only way to see the park — and let us join their group.

We saw elephants and baboons and a young cheetah. We stayed at a lodge that seemed lifted from a novel: a circular, open-air lobby with small cottages clustered around it. Our twin beds were draped with mosquito nets, and there was a shower with running water.

After lunch and siesta we clambered back on top of the van and rode through the countryside as the sun sank lower in the sky. A sea of grass waved around us; the whole world seemed made of it.

It was a moment out of time, one I return to often, a moment of tamed adventure. The wild around us, the promise of rest to come.

Rich, Deep Well

Rich, Deep Well

This time last year I was in Benin, West Africa — zooming around on zemidjans, glimpsing a baby cheetah in the wild, strolling past roasting pigs’ heads. Another world, a world I’m glad I saw, especially now that part of that world has come to live with us.

And, because I’ve seen this world, it lives within me. Its sights and sounds are a bulwark against the sanitized air of the everyday.

So today when I’m crammed into a Metro car or dealing with yet another work crisis, I’ll think of the  vast grassy emptiness of Park Pendjari, stretching all the way to Burkina Faso. I’ll conjure up the palm trees lining the beach road from Ouidah to Cotonou. I’ll recall the thrill and terror of the long dark zem ride to the bus stop in Nattitingou.

I wasn’t always comfortable over there. I said my share of Hail Mary’s. But the trip is a rich, deep well of experience. I’m so thankful to have it.

Out of Africa

Out of Africa

The second leg of their trip has begun, the one that will bring Suzanne and Appolinaire from a  village in the north of Benin, West Africa, to Washington, D.C. The trip began last night in the little Cotonou Airport and continued with a brief stop in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, before landing in Istanbul, Turkey. There they boarded their U.S.-bound flight, and now they’re heading home.

But preparations began over a year ago, pulling together the paperwork for the K-1 (fiance) visa, filling out forms, collecting photographs, sending the packet off and then waiting, waiting, waiting.

Luckily, the waiting was done in West Africa, a place where patience seems bred into the bone, where people think nothing of standing for hours on a hot roadside in hopes that the 200,000-plus-mile Peugeot that’s been carrying them to the next village can once more be coaxed to life so they can  cram into it and get going.

This patience, and the shrugged shoulders and hopefulness that go with it, is an excellent trait to carry along to the new world. It will help them navigate a complex culture and the inevitable waiting times and snafus built into becoming first a resident and then a citizen of the United States.

We’ve been needing a lot of patience ourselves lately as we counted down to the day — November 23 — that we thought would never come. And we’ll need an extra dose of it this evening as we crane our necks in Dulles’ bustling International Arrivals Terminal, looking, looking, looking for a dazed young couple to walk through the doors and into our arms.

Tale of Two Temperatures

Tale of Two Temperatures

It’s 90 degrees today in Cotonou, Benin. It was 40 degrees when I woke up in Oak Hill, Virginia. Fifty degrees of separation — that’s a lot for a person who’s never experienced winter.This is just one of the many adjustments we’ll be witnessing in a few days.

I’ve been pulling for one of those warm winters that can sometimes grace these parts, especially when there’s an El Nino pattern. But the next few days promise brisk winds and seasonable temps, and my purple (excuse me, aubergine) wool coat has already been pressed into service.

Nothing to do but go with the flow, whether it’s warm or cold. Nothing to do now but hold on for the ride!


(Rush hour in Cotonou from the back of a zemidjan.)