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Worth It

Worth It

By the time I finished writing yesterday it was mid-afternoon and the rain was settling in. What else to do but take the walk anyway. It was my last full day in this marvelous place. 

So I ventured out into the drizzle, plugging into a chipper playlist and heading up the hill, the way I’ve started most every walk since I’ve been here.

It was the perfect northwest experience: trees were dripping, waves were pounding, gulls were soaring — and some brave soul was wind surfing.

I returned home a bit damp but no worse for the wear. I knew the walk would be worth it — and it was. 

Fort Word (en)

Fort Word (en)

In the beginning was the Word, and the word was a Fort,

a peninsula, open to the sea.

Pilgrims seeking vistas and space

scale battlements, walk gunnery lines,

marvel at the madrona, her red skins shining.

We climb steps for inlet and strait, 

whitecaps, a lighthouse on the point. 

Wandering trails.

Reading verses in the vault.

Looking west to spy a mountain range

we didn’t know was there. 

In a place designed for war

we find peace. 

(A salute to all veterans, especially my father  — and all those who served at Fort Worden.)
Stan’s Side

Stan’s Side

For the last few days I’ve been getting to know an old friend, Standard — Stan for short.

I haven’t seen him since March, but here he is again, and up to his usual tricks: early mornings, early evenings, a sense that darkness is winning. In a way, it’s not his fault. He arrives on the scene just as the light is fading, and departs when it’s coming into its own. He’s left holding the bag.

Some people want to banish him forever. Others think we should get rid of his flashy cousin. Until we do one or the other, Stan will be the sober fellow who says “you really should go home now, it’s getting dark” or “early to bed and early to rise.” 

If you happen to catch him in the morning, though … it’s a different story. Trust me, I know.  

(Two sunrise photos in a row? Stan made me do it.)

Location, Inspiration

Location, Inspiration

For a walker in the suburbs, I have trouble with pacing. Not with the steps themselves — those come naturally — but with how many to take in 17 waking hours.

The days of high walking, of great movement, those liberate and restore. But so do the days of sitting and writing, jumping up only when the sun starts sliding to the west and I realize that if I don’t leave now I won’t get to town and back before the sun sets. 

Every time I walk in this place, this faraway and beautiful place, I’m struck by the connection between location and inspiration. I write, I waffle, I sink into despair. Then I lace up my hiking boots, step outside — and the vast views pull me into a deeper truth. And that, I realize, is what I seek. 

Companionship Lite

Companionship Lite

Yesterday I met the artists who are in residence here this week. It’s a bigger crowd than last week, and a more eclectic one. 

Tucked away in various cabins and studios around the park are a sculptor, a painter, a concertina player, mother and son visual artists, two musicians who usually collaborate electronically and are thrilled to be working together in person, and an author of children’s books. 

It was a congenial group, and we parted with the promise of a studio visit or concert to come. 

Companionship after solitude is welcome, especially when it’s with others who are jealously guarding their private time … what you might call “companionship lite.”

(The residence lounge where we met.)

On Film

On Film

I heard about it even before I arrived. The van driver who brought me to this place gave me a mim-tour of the area on the way: the marina, the ferry and the main drag downtown. 

Most of all, he pointed out the movie locations for “An Officer and a Gentleman.” Turns out that almost all of the 1982 film was shot in Port Townsend: the parade ground, the lighthouse, the military barracks, the motel, the beach.

Since I arrived here last week I’ve been trying to watch the movie. Last night I succeeded. And yes, there were most of the scenes I’ve been seeing on my walks around the area, all lit up on the screen. I’ll experience these places differently today.

The Houses

The Houses

There are 400 acres of park trails to explore outside my door. I’m hiking some of them every day. But as much as I enjoy the forest paths, I’m more drawn to Port Townsend’s residential streets and the houses that line them.

There are bungalows and A-frames and high-and-mighty Victorians. There are saltboxes, many-gabled wonders, and wood-shingled beauties turned on their sides, windows placed for maximum sea views.  

The houses have vegetable gardens, apple trees, the last roses of summer. A place I spied yesterday is tucked behind a thick hedge. I imagine walking through that green archway up to the door beyond.                                                    

A Trip to Town

A Trip to Town

Yesterday, I went for groceries. If this sounds like some sort of Old West expedition, coming down the mountain for coffee and sugar and flour, that wouldn’t be too far off the mark. Because it was an adventure, the adventure of public transport in a place I barely know. 

I walked into town, but thought it would be better not to walk back, given the heaviness of my load. No problem. I’d studied the bus route, thought I knew what I was doing. 

The first sign of difficulty was the road closure in front of the grocery store. I thought I’d accounted for it when I found a temporary stop, but actually I hadn’t. The bus that finally arrived wasn’t going my way. Instead, I had a lovely tour of Port Townsend from a bus driver who reminded me of Paul Giamatti. 

“You missed the #2,” he said. “Best go back to the Transit Center and get the #3. I can take you there.” He did that, then I waited … and waited. As Paul was pulling out for another loop and there was still no sign of the #3 bus, he opened his window and shouted, “He’ll be here soon; he’s just fixing his bus.” 

Uh oh. Fixing his bus? This didn’t sound good. But in fact the #3 did arrive minutes later, and a colorful cast of character hopped on, all with various forms of bag and baggage: shopping bags, sleeping bags, backpacks. Eventually, I was dropped off at the stop Paul suggested, walked another half mile or so, and was glad to see the barracks of the fort park where I’m staying finally swing into view.

I’m thinking now about those few hours in town, knowing no one, carless, dependent on strangers. I think about the kindness of the driver, and of my fellow riders. They remind me how much some people carry — and how little I do.

(The mossy roof of home.)

Admiralty Inlet

Admiralty Inlet

I enjoy taking photographs, and I take a lot of them, but I’ve never visited a place that a photo truly captures. A still image can’t communicate the broad sweep of an ocean vista, the tang in the desert air, the way a place speaks to you — or doesn’t. 

Many places speak to me. I’m fickle in that way. Last month I was enraptured by Savannah and Charleston. This month it’s the Pacific Northwest. But in my defense… I do love all these places. Especially when I’m walking through them. 

I strolled through Port Townsend the other day and took in its Victorian/hippie vibe, bought a small packet of tuna salad from one of its overpriced grocery stores, savored the views from Jackson Street overlooking Admiralty Inlet. 

Returning to my little house, I passed homeowners putting their gardens to bed before the rain moved in, the omnipresent grazing deer, and the view you see above. 

I plan to take this walk again soon.

Haunted Chicken Coop

Haunted Chicken Coop

It wasn’t exactly a haunted walk I took yesterday through uptown Port Townsend. But it was filled with little ghosts and goblins and houses decked out in their Halloween best. 

My favorite was this haunted chicken coop, the hens pecking away nonchalantly behind faux tombstones. They don’t need to make fun of death because, well, they have no idea they’ll experience it one day. 

We humans, of course, are another matter.