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Companionship Lite

Companionship Lite

Yesterday I met the artists who are in residence here this week. It’s a bigger crowd than last week, and a more eclectic one. 

Tucked away in various cabins and studios around the park are a sculptor, a painter, a concertina player, mother and son visual artists, two musicians who usually collaborate electronically and are thrilled to be working together in person, and an author of children’s books. 

It was a congenial group, and we parted with the promise of a studio visit or concert to come. 

Companionship after solitude is welcome, especially when it’s with others who are jealously guarding their private time … what you might call “companionship lite.”

(The residence lounge where we met.)

On Film

On Film

I heard about it even before I arrived. The van driver who brought me to this place gave me a mim-tour of the area on the way: the marina, the ferry and the main drag downtown. 

Most of all, he pointed out the movie locations for “An Officer and a Gentleman.” Turns out that almost all of the 1982 film was shot in Port Townsend: the parade ground, the lighthouse, the military barracks, the motel, the beach.

Since I arrived here last week I’ve been trying to watch the movie. Last night I succeeded. And yes, there were most of the scenes I’ve been seeing on my walks around the area, all lit up on the screen. I’ll experience these places differently today.

The Houses

The Houses

There are 400 acres of park trails to explore outside my door. I’m hiking some of them every day. But as much as I enjoy the forest paths, I’m more drawn to Port Townsend’s residential streets and the houses that line them.

There are bungalows and A-frames and high-and-mighty Victorians. There are saltboxes, many-gabled wonders, and wood-shingled beauties turned on their sides, windows placed for maximum sea views.  

The houses have vegetable gardens, apple trees, the last roses of summer. A place I spied yesterday is tucked behind a thick hedge. I imagine walking through that green archway up to the door beyond.                                                    

A Trip to Town

A Trip to Town

Yesterday, I went for groceries. If this sounds like some sort of Old West expedition, coming down the mountain for coffee and sugar and flour, that wouldn’t be too far off the mark. Because it was an adventure, the adventure of public transport in a place I barely know. 

I walked into town, but thought it would be better not to walk back, given the heaviness of my load. No problem. I’d studied the bus route, thought I knew what I was doing. 

The first sign of difficulty was the road closure in front of the grocery store. I thought I’d accounted for it when I found a temporary stop, but actually I hadn’t. The bus that finally arrived wasn’t going my way. Instead, I had a lovely tour of Port Townsend from a bus driver who reminded me of Paul Giamatti. 

“You missed the #2,” he said. “Best go back to the Transit Center and get the #3. I can take you there.” He did that, then I waited … and waited. As Paul was pulling out for another loop and there was still no sign of the #3 bus, he opened his window and shouted, “He’ll be here soon; he’s just fixing his bus.” 

Uh oh. Fixing his bus? This didn’t sound good. But in fact the #3 did arrive minutes later, and a colorful cast of character hopped on, all with various forms of bag and baggage: shopping bags, sleeping bags, backpacks. Eventually, I was dropped off at the stop Paul suggested, walked another half mile or so, and was glad to see the barracks of the fort park where I’m staying finally swing into view.

I’m thinking now about those few hours in town, knowing no one, carless, dependent on strangers. I think about the kindness of the driver, and of my fellow riders. They remind me how much some people carry — and how little I do.

(The mossy roof of home.)

Admiralty Inlet

Admiralty Inlet

I enjoy taking photographs, and I take a lot of them, but I’ve never visited a place that a photo truly captures. A still image can’t communicate the broad sweep of an ocean vista, the tang in the desert air, the way a place speaks to you — or doesn’t. 

Many places speak to me. I’m fickle in that way. Last month I was enraptured by Savannah and Charleston. This month it’s the Pacific Northwest. But in my defense… I do love all these places. Especially when I’m walking through them. 

I strolled through Port Townsend the other day and took in its Victorian/hippie vibe, bought a small packet of tuna salad from one of its overpriced grocery stores, savored the views from Jackson Street overlooking Admiralty Inlet. 

Returning to my little house, I passed homeowners putting their gardens to bed before the rain moved in, the omnipresent grazing deer, and the view you see above. 

I plan to take this walk again soon.

Haunted Chicken Coop

Haunted Chicken Coop

It wasn’t exactly a haunted walk I took yesterday through uptown Port Townsend. But it was filled with little ghosts and goblins and houses decked out in their Halloween best. 

My favorite was this haunted chicken coop, the hens pecking away nonchalantly behind faux tombstones. They don’t need to make fun of death because, well, they have no idea they’ll experience it one day. 

We humans, of course, are another matter. 

Improbable Home

Improbable Home

It’s a day of hauntings, of swirled fog and footsteps in the night. But here on the tip of the Olympic peninsula (actually, a map tells me that it’s called the Quimper Peninsula), it’s bright and clear. 

I arrived here yesterday when the sun was streaming in the windows of the house that will be my home for the next two weeks. There were just two hours left of daylight. I had to explore.

There was a road down to the beach and a lighthouse at the end of it. There was a single sailboat moored in the waves. There was Mount Baker and the North Cascades on the horizon. 

I walked until I was hungry, then came back here, to this most improbable home. 

Seattle Sunday

Seattle Sunday

Today I head up to the residency at Port Townsend, but yesterday was a break between prep and travel. A Seattle Sunday. 

And not just any Sunday, but a crisp, sparkling one, temp in the mid 30s to start. I hoofed it east toward Lake Washington and strolled first down, then up. The water was so clear you could see the rocks at the bottom.  

People were running and strolling and walking their dogs. The sunshine was intoxicating. I don’t expect to see much of it while I’m out here … so I reveled in it, too. 

A Mountain, A Miracle

A Mountain, A Miracle

Day One of my getaway began with an early wakening and a miraculous flight across the country. 

Do I gush when I say miraculous? Actually, I do not. Because when you grow up on car travel, as I did, on seemingly interminable slogs from Lexington, Kentucky, to Los Angeles, San Francisco or other points west, boarding a jet at 7 and being on the opposite coast before lunch will never cease to amaze me. 

What awaited me on the other side were family and friends, blue skies and fir trees. Here’s Mount Baker from a Columbia City, Seattle, rooftop. It’s the same mountain that illustrates Friday’s post, which I captured from an earlier plane trip. 

It’s become a beacon now on these cross-country flights. When I see it, I know I’m almost there. It always appears sooner than I think. 

The Unmentioned

The Unmentioned

I’m thinking about travel blogging, which I’ve done a bit of these last few months. Writing and traveling are natural partners because they’re both about exploring and discovering. But there’s at least one major difference — when you write about a trip, you edit out the embarrassing, extraneous or just plain boring.

A week ago, for instance, I was packing up to leave a motel room where I worried I might have picked up bed bugs. I know these critters can lurk in swanky establishments as well as lesser ones, but this place was most definitely the latter. 

I’d chosen it because it was cheap, and fresh from three weeks in Scotland I was all about saving money. But from the first glimpse of the dingy hallway I remembered an important lesson I often ignore: you get what you pay for.

It’s always good to be reminded of that reality. It’s even better to leave it behind in the detritus of trip details I generally leave unmentioned. 

(I have no photos of the offensive motel, which did not have bedbugs, by the way.)