Madeira is a civilized place to hike. You can begin with coffee, break for tea and end up at a poncha bar, poncha being Madeira’s signature drink, a sugary sweet concoction of rum and juice.

Yesterday we hiked on a levada trail that originated in Monte and went all the way to Camacha. We didn’t walk that far, but we did make it to a teahouse perched on a hill.

Imagine sipping tea with the vast Atlantic filling the horizon, shining water framed by flowers and orange trees. We’re facing south, with Africa to our left and America to our right — suspended between the old world and the new.