This morning Lisbon woke up and went to work. There was a down-to-business hustle-bustle that was missing on Sunday. Men in dark suits gathered across the street in front of what I just realized is a government building with an official-looking crest to prove it. Shops threw open their doors and displayed their wares.

Tourists have to work, too. We set the alarm for 8 a.m. to make a 10 a.m. walking tour, which we did, with time to spare. 

Our guide, Marta, not only showed us panoramic views all over the city but also clued us in on little “cheats,” such as taking public elevators to avoid walking up stairs in this hilly town. As a special treat she delivered codfish cakes and custard tarts (more on these later) to revive our flagging energy.  It worked! We reached Commerce Square revived and ready to visit a museum this afternoon. 

Touring Lisbon: It’s a tough job, but somebody has to do it.