“We’ll be harvesting soon,” said our Colmar hostess. “It’s very early this year so we’re in a state.” It’s hard to imagine this poised, multilingual woman as anything but calm and pleasant, but running a winery and a hostelry could test anyone’s mettle.

Her words confirmed what we’ve noticed on our wanderings: the grapes seem ripe and ready to pick. It’s been a hot, dry summer in the Alsace. And though our contact with the region’s famed wines has been limited, I can tell how delicious they are by watching others imbibe.

The best part of wine country for me has been discovering the Sentier Viticole, the Wine Trail. Grapes growing, hikers hiking, bikers biking — a jumble of motion and activity and joy. I wish I could have hiked forever, but that’s not very practical, is it? Moderation in all things, except, perhaps, moderation.